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 [:p] E300 = SLOW Need Help With 36V Conversion[:p]
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2010 :  05:04:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
this is my first post so here goes sorry for the length am i supposed to ask each question in a separate post? but w/e i need help understanding how to upgrade my e300 i dont get the wiring thing how do i wire it do i have to buy a f2 terminal connector to add the third battery or can i just wrap some 12 gauge wire around the terminal and use some heat shrink and try to make a good connection with out normal connectors. i was looking through some other post and saw one guys diagram to wire the batts in series Insert Image:

16.39 KB is this diagram correct and i dont see a on off switch wired in how does that all go in there. I also am the kinda guy who likes to add lights to everything and i was wondering how i would wire in a head light turn signals and so neon green lights to the bottom like pimp it out


pps i was wondering how you guy mount your third batteries i saw the guy who made the wiring diagram made hid deck higher to fit batteries under the deck and i saw one guy made this really cool mounting thing on the back of it with a lock and stuff i was wondering whick idea would be better


Edited by - moddinmanic97 on 07/08/2010 09:32:01

moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2010 :  07:44:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
i was also wondering i have an 9.6v battery for a rc car i was wondering could i use htat as my lights battery like to power my headlights and lights on the bottom and stuff i have a way to charge it but im not sure if the way the light are hooked up will work can someone help me correct this error or show me how i can use my original batteries?
thanks
George Reiley
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gameboy
Administrator

just north of austin
tx
USA

1460 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2010 :  10:11:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
that sounds like a good idea. having a seperate battery doesnt take away from motor voltage. just find a light or build some that take the voltage your wanting to give it and your set.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2010 :  10:22:13  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
oops i forgot to upload my diagram her it is


9.94 KB i dont think it will work because when i try to charge it wont it put power to the lights?
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JoeStud
Journeyman Modder

rochester
ny
USA

176 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2010 :  17:49:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
no real need for the lites during charging periods, right?

***The Main Difference Between Men & Boys, Is Their Toys (Scooters)***
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/09/2010 :  18:04:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
no i dont need them but i figured it out on my own thanks for the help

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2010 :  13:56:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok so i just got my parts today and my stock chain wont fit i was wondering if i have 2 master chian links can i use my stock chain and the 1 ft of chain i just ordered to make the right length?

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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gameboy
Administrator

just north of austin
tx
USA

1460 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2010 :  14:14:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by moddinmanic97

ok so i just got my parts today and my stock chain wont fit i was wondering if i have 2 master chian links can i use my stock chain and the 1 ft of chain i just ordered to make the right length?



yes, as long as you have enough chain, make as many splices ( masterlinks) as you need to length you need.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2010 :  14:20:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok thanks i didnt want to have to buy 2 ft of chain but 1 more question will my chian lose some strenght?

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2010 :  14:49:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
darn it i was jsut looking at my new motor wiht the sprocket and it has an 8mm chain sprocket and i need a #25 how can i take my old sprocket off of my old motor to put on the new motor they both have a d shaped hole i really dont want to return my motor to get a #25 motor with a sprocket #25 sprocket

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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Uncle D
Journeyman Modder

Kailua Kona
H
USA



477 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2010 :  17:13:35  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Doesn't it just have a nut on top? if not, then it has a set screw, but I'm pretty sure you just undo the nut and switch out the sprockets.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2010 :  17:35:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
yea but the nut is really tight how do i hold the sprocket


Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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Uncle D
Journeyman Modder

Kailua Kona
H
USA



477 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2010 :  18:49:57  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Wrap a rag around the sprocket teeth, grip the sprocket by Its teeth with a vice-grip and take the nut off with a rachet. I used my 1/2 drive impact gun as that made it a breeze, but it can be done with a rachet/socket deal.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2010 :  19:30:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok thanks

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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timmy2time
Journeyman Modder






399 Posts

Posted - 07/10/2010 :  23:43:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Don't for get that the threads are backwards. To loosen the nut on the motor you turn it clock wise.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/11/2010 :  02:40:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ooooooh thanks soooooooooooooooooooooo much timmy i was thinking it was just really strong!

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/12/2010 :  11:30:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
so i have been figuring out how i want to mount my motor it will foit the stock position but then ill lost hte kickstand or do i cut into the deck a bit to make hte motor fit on to of the mount?

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2010 :  18:18:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
al right you guys ive been hooking up my scooter you know cutting and slpicing connectors for the controller and i decided to hook a lil 12v up to my 36v 1000w motor holy crap did that thing jump off the ground i was wondering how much torque does this motor motor have like how much can this baby pull? http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/36-volt-1000-watt-motor-controller-throttle-kit-standard.html

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2010 :  19:01:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok i just finished hooking everything up and i try to power the motor with my throttle and nothing wen i hook the motor up to the batts it ruuns like crazy the throttle wires on the controller are Red Black and Blue in order from right to left on the throttle they are Yellow Black and Blue how do i hook it all up cuz idk if i dnt have it all right PLEASE HELP IDK IF I NEED A NEW CONTROLLER IT'D SUCK CUZ I JUST GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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Uncle D
Journeyman Modder

Kailua Kona
H
USA



477 Posts

Posted - 07/14/2010 :  22:25:04  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
You can try switching the blue and the red??? Did you try just plugging it straight in? If so, just try switching the two outside wires on either plug.

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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/15/2010 :  04:14:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
yea i already tried that ...i have no juice coming from y controoller when i hit the throttle either...no juice to anything oh my god i just realized waat it is ive been trying it all on a 24v set up wen my controlle is for 36 its the lvC\c!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/16/2010 :  11:14:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok i have got my deck spacers to raise up my deck finish they are just plywood that i traced my deck with and cut with a jigsaw then i used a ruler/tape measure to make a 1in perimeter around the inside of the template and cut that out with a jig saw i raised my deck because it was the best way to remain the stock look of the e300 by standing the 12v 7ah batteries up normally instead of the stock laying down position. i am going to paint them a blue to match the paint of the e300 for a clean crisp look i have not sanded them down yet or finished drilling bolt holes into them but more info on the would be: they are 1/2 inches tall i have three of them (I don't show all of them in the pics) because standing up they are 1 1/4in taller than the deck now they are upright


54.56 KB


74.72 KB

Wow that thing runs great.................................................im bored let pimp it out!
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  07:10:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok so today i got my 3rd battery and hooked everything up and holy @#$% that motor has sooooooooo much torque it i flipped upside down!! i love theis motor it works great on an e300 and this controller works great the only thing is my battery incdicator doesnt light up



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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Uncle D
Journeyman Modder

Kailua Kona
H
USA



477 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  08:01:26  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
So did the 3rd battery fit in the tray now that you have them stood up? You know one way I was gonna mount my batteries if I put the 48V setup on my E300 was to mount them like saddle bags on both sides of the rear wheels and also increase the depth of the tray to house the wider 12V/12ah batteries.

That's pretty cool that you cut out the spacers. When I bought my GoPed ESR750 extended range kit, it came with a spacer just like that to fit high amp batteries.



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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  08:40:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
they fit perfectly with a little extra room left i had a brake light wired in to but i blew the bulb my controller has a brake light connector and it worked but when i mounted it on my mounting stand i made for lack of a better word but the negative wire stripped and touched the red so it blew the bulb but my motor is absolutly crazy powerful!!



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  08:49:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
i was thinking bout learning how to weld and i thought that this might be a good starting welder what do you guys think and does anyone know where i can learn to weld? welding would really ope up my modding possibilities haha.



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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friedwires
Journeyman Modder

port charlotte
florida
USA

267 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  08:58:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
get a cheap wirefeed,and a beginners book.it will show you the basics
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  09:08:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
wow thanks for the fast reply im looking now



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  09:38:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
hows this one? http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/1830248187.html



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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friedwires
Journeyman Modder

port charlotte
florida
USA

267 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  10:07:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
yup, thats a winner as long as its in working order.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  10:08:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok sweet ill probably get it its kinda a long haul i found it with searchtempest.com



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2010 :  10:21:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
i was thinking about wiring aa 30 amp fuse in lline with my motor so that way if my motor gets to hot ill just blow the fuse and not the motor if it stay to hot what do you guys think of that?



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/18/2010 :  19:41:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
hey guys ive been watching uncle d's project and fried wires said that you can use a dc motor as a generator i was wondering how would i wire that in i dont know if you have noticed but im not the best at wiring



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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gameboy
Administrator

just north of austin
tx
USA

1460 Posts

Posted - 07/18/2010 :  21:45:51  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
wire what in? a whole seperate DC motor? or wire it up to make the stock motor produce energy on braking? (regeneritive braking)
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/18/2010 :  22:01:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
well i took my drill and hooked it up to the stock e300 motor hooked the positive nd negative leads to a voltage meter and spun the drill and it mad power about 5.45v so i was thinking of mounting it on my e300 but not give it power and use it to charge my batts



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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Uncle D
Journeyman Modder

Kailua Kona
H
USA



477 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  01:26:57  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
I think there is more to it then just hooking it up. If not, wouldn't there be more folks doing it?

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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  08:07:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
true
but i really would wawnt to figureit out i just have to figure out what way teh motor spins to give me a positive volatage and the i think that i just have to wire that in to the charger but im not exactly positive



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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gameboy
Administrator

just north of austin
tx
USA

1460 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  08:40:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok, so you want to add a second motor to your scooter and put a wheel on it and run it to charge the batteries while you run your scooter down the road. good summation?

well, you dont get something for nothing in this world so doing that will cause drag on the scooter. when the motor is spinning and generating power there is resistance on the "spin" so that is your drag. the extra drag on your scooter will either keep it slower or make your ride time shorter.

now i know that something like it can be done and that is where "regeneritive brakeing controllers" come into play. if you can find one and get that on your scooter it will have additional rectifiers/diodes/resitors and a whole lot of other parts i cant pronounce in there to make it work. but it is not 100% efficient and only helps your ride time, which i think would be ok with you. ( me too for that matter) anything that extends ride time is golden!

so not trying to rain on your parade, just passing on the limited amount of knowledge i have so you know what your up against. i think something like this can be done but at what cost?
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  08:56:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok thats good info i was thinking about hte drag but i have a big old 100watt motor that has crazy torque i forget how lbs= inch but even if there is a little drag it wont really bother me the motor is already crazy fast and im only 165 lbs so that motor will haul a$$ i was thinking about wiring in a dmpt switch i think thats the right one to be able to switch to adding power to the motor instead of charging it hence less drag but im afraid that will hinder my mother motors voltage and then ill be able to switch back maybe going down a hill or something





this is kinda off topic but when ever i use my controllers brake light connector hooked up to my brake light i keep blowing bulbs so then i checked the voltage coming from the controller and it was a whopping 38.56 volts is there a way that i can bring that down to a mere 12v so that i can use a standard car bulb



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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gameboy
Administrator

just north of austin
tx
USA

1460 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  10:59:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
yes you can. i dont know how to do it, but you can. i know its with resistors and if you find the right one that would be all you need. now since its a 36v controller that is what is sent to the bulb. they do make 36v bulbs and that is what is supposed to be in there.

on a lighter note, i like your idea better, because then you can just run down to the auto parts store to get a new one.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  11:17:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok i dont mean to feel like an idea i dont exactly understand you on a lighter note thing and ive been trying to find info on how to limit the voltage ill keep you posted on my findings



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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SiriusFun
Journeyman Modder

Lakewood
Colorado

203 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  11:29:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by moddinmanic97

... is there a way that i can bring that down to a mere 12v so that i can use a standard car bulb


You could wire (3) identical 12V lamps in series. Each would cause about 1/3 voltage drop to your total available voltage (~39V).

Or, do as gameboy suggested and use resistors. Try Yahoogling "voltage divider", and you will see how it's done.

Simplest, easiest solution might be to just order a couple 36V bulbs.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  11:39:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
serius that is a great idea to wire 3 in series that would be perfect i might add blinks just for the fun of it to use up 2/3 of the voltage and then a light to use up the rest great idea



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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SiriusFun
Journeyman Modder

Lakewood
Colorado

203 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  11:51:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
All three bulbs need to come on and go off together or this will not work.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2010 :  11:54:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
oh yea i forgot about that oops haha maybe ill just take three little brake light bulbs and put them into a little brake light housing or maybe ill get one of those 12v leds and put them in there



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  18:47:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I got my lights i got my lights i got my lights these light are absolutely amazing but i only have one problem they are 12v lights and my original set up doesn't have the power to power three of them so this is what I'm planning to do. I want to attach wires to the terminals of my 3 12v e300 batteries both to the negative and positive. Then connect the three positives (coming from my batteries) to make 1 wire that will go to my switch. I'll connect them to the switch on one "terminal" and then an other wire to the other terminal (duh) then that wire will split into three separate wires that will go to the positive leads on my lights


Now if you could understand all of that here are my questions before i do anything:
1: What gauge wire should i use to connect the wires to my switch
2: Do i need the same gauge wire coming back from the switch to the lights or will the voltage be less be cause it will be used up my the lights
3: Will this set-up drain my batteries unevenly or not i tried to wrap my brain around it and it doesn't seem like it would because when its on all 3 batteries will be used
4: Is my wiring set-up good to according to my schematic or what ever you call it





Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction




14.36 KB

Edited by - moddinmanic97 on 07/20/2010 20:47:57
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SiriusFun
Journeyman Modder

Lakewood
Colorado

203 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  22:01:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by moddinmanic97

...my original set up doesn't have the power to power three of them...

...Now if you could understand all of that here are my questions before i do anything:
1: What gauge wire should i use to connect the wires to my switch
2: Do i need the same gauge wire coming back from the switch to the lights or will the voltage be less be cause it will be used up my the lights
3: Will this set-up drain my batteries unevenly or not i tried to wrap my brain around it and it doesn't seem like it would because when its on all 3 batteries will be used
4: Is my wiring set-up good to according to my schematic or what ever you call it...




The wiring diagram shown will work electrically, but I'm not sure why you feel you don't have enough power for 3 LED's. They have a very low amp draw. milliamps. Are you sure you need the capacity of all three batteries just for the lights?

If this is the same battery pack used to power your scooter at 36V (in series), you can NOT wire the three batts together in parallel at the same time. I may not be totally clear on what you're trying to do and how many battery packs we're talking about.

Your wiring diagram would work, and be safe (you may want to add a very small inline fuse in the lighting circuit), and would discharge all 3 batts evenly. But, you just can't have it in series at the same time.

Could you hook-up the 3 strings of LED's in series and tap off the total system voltage (like you're gonna do with the brakes?)? Just add a small fuse, a switch, and a little bit of wiring.

I can't advise on wire size unless we know the current (wire gauge is not dependent on just voltage). I can't see why you would need anything larger than 18AWG, maybe even 20.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  22:12:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
im confused with the tapping off of the system voltage what do you mean for that for the brakes my controller i have a special brake light connector for lights im really confused



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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SiriusFun
Journeyman Modder

Lakewood
Colorado

203 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  22:23:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If you want your lights to go off when you shut-off the main switch, coonect your new lighting circuit to the 36V positive on the controller side of the switch. If you want your lights to remain on after you shut-off the main switch (parking lights?), you would connect to the 36V positive on the battery side of the switch. Pick-up 36V negative from the most negative battery in the string (same wire that goes to your controller negative).

It's the same as your brakes in that its taking 36V and powering (3) 12V loads in series.
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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  22:34:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
i see what you mean but i dont want them to turn on when i turn on the scooter to not waste my battery while in daylight they are nice neon green lights that are for night they are meant to go under a car but they look great on my scooter thats the reason that i figured out my diagramto be able to not use them in day light and in nighttime



Razor e300 36v 1000w Motor Under Construction

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SiriusFun
Journeyman Modder

Lakewood
Colorado

203 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  23:23:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just continue to plan to use a toggle switch to control the lights independently (like in your diagram). You can connect positive to either side of the main switch.
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Uncle D
Journeyman Modder

Kailua Kona
H
USA



477 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2010 :  03:37:43  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Yep if its LED's you got going, I wouldn't worry much about power consumption as they don't use much.

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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2010 :  09:40:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
so should i use 36 v 12 for each light or 12v?



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Uncle D
Journeyman Modder

Kailua Kona
H
USA



477 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2010 :  13:47:44  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
If its all LED I'd say you'll be fine with taking power from just 1 battery. Have you tried to power them off of something less than 12V. Most likely they will still work. Thinking maybe you can go to radioshack and get a holder for 4-6 AA batteries and wire that as a seperate power if you wanted.

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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2010 :  14:23:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
i tried them on a 9v rechargeable battery i have and they didnt work i kooked them up to my middle battery and they work great i just mounted them to the bottom for a neon like look dang do they look good they have that perfect look.
i have one more question i just tried hooking up my scooter to the charger and it said it was fully charged now it hasn't been charged in days the wires to my motor are getting a full 37.8v when i give it full throttle i dont want the unplug my batteries from my controller because they spark a lot no prob just a quick little one but i dont want to take a chance if there is that much juice going to my motor are my batteries dead? i ran my motor for ten minutes and now its reading 36.7v i was gunning it and it still has a green light
thanks for the help on the lights



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moddinmanic97
Journeyman Modder




221 Posts

Posted - 07/22/2010 :  15:42:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Throttle-Hall-0-5V-Twist-Grip-E-bike-E-Scooter-/120545977381?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1119a425
ok i just fried my throttle and i was wondering if this one would be a direct replacement for this throttle? http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/handthrottle.html like is the diameter the same also is uncle d's find a 36v throttle?



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SiriusFun
Journeyman Modder

Lakewood
Colorado

203 Posts

Posted - 07/22/2010 :  16:18:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by moddinmanic97

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Throttle-Hall-0-5V-Twist-Grip-E-bike-E-Scooter-/120545977381?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1119a425
ok i just fried my throttle and i was wondering if this one would be a direct replacement for this throttle? http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/handthrottle.html like is the diameter the same also is uncle d's find a 36v throttle?


Both are three-wire hall full grip. With the first one, you get a matching grip. Both are too expensive. I've bought the exact same one as on Monster. I got it from E.S.P. for $20. It failed after a few months of use. I ordered one from TNC and it was EXACTLY the same throttle for $8.50. And those failed, too. My last new one made it two whole weeks before suddenly going full throttle while I was walking a dog.

Since neither throttle listed has LED's, you can use them on any voltage controller that supplies 5V for the Halls.

I'm sure you'll find throttles are almost always sized to fit 7/8" bars.
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moddinmanic97
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Posted - 07/22/2010 :  17:11:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
never mind monster scooter parts is sending me a replacement throttle



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Uncle D
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Kailua Kona
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USA



477 Posts

Posted - 07/22/2010 :  17:26:26  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
No, that particular throttle is the same one I posted in another thread. I got that seller to bring in that throttle that is 0-5V varying rather thant the normal 1-4V that most all of our scooters are using. If you ever had to buy one, you can get them also on ebay a little cheaper than that one.

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SiriusFun
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Lakewood
Colorado

203 Posts

Posted - 07/22/2010 :  18:36:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Are you saying there are two ranges for Hall throttles? Some use 1-4V and some are 0-5V?
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Uncle D
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Kailua Kona
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USA



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Posted - 07/22/2010 :  19:20:25  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
IDK if they are considered Hall still, but I have a Magura throttle that I needed for my brushless BMC motor that I'm currently working on. But apparently, yes, there are 1-4V(common) and then not so common 0-5V like the Magura and that one that modd linked. I actually bought that one from that seller, then they answered my question saying it wasn't really 1-4V so they contacted their supplier and found they had ONE 0-5V version. If you go to Kelly Controls' site they have that same exact throttle detailed to be 0-5V--which is what Kelly Controllers are compatible with.

I tried connecting the standard Razor PR200 Hall throttle(1-4V Hall) and it powered on the motor right away(low rpm) and when I gave it full throttle it wasn't hitting the full RPM as it was only seeing like 3.86V or something.

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SiriusFun
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Lakewood
Colorado

203 Posts

Posted - 07/22/2010 :  19:53:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Magura is considered a "resistive" throttle as opposed to a "Hall-Effect". Resistance throttles use variable resistors or potentiometers. The signal varies between 0 and 5V based on throttle (wiper) position. Resistive throttles are also referred to by their Ohm value. The Magura is 0-5k Ohms. Resistive throttles are generally more expensive than Hall throttles.

You bought the 0-5V Hall throttle, did you ever check the signal wire with a voltmeter?

I have the very popular full-grip Hall and it's connected to a LB37 controller. The controller puts out a full 5V. But the most I can measure on the signal wire is less than 4V at full twist. I'd wonder if the throttle was holding me back, except when I hit Boost from full throttle, there is only a slight increase in top speed.

Still, I wonder if there remains to be a great deal that I still don't know about throttles.

I'm tempted to order the matching set listed above to see if it would make a difference. Might be a good $15 lesson. How long did it take to get yours from China?

So, you used your PR200 throttle for the BMC brushles motor and it didn't like it? Brushless controllers generally seem to use the Reistance type of throttle. I hooked up a Magura to my LB37 and I had to twist a lot before I got any wheel movement. I'm not sure that my controller is "looking" for a signal below 1V or above 4V. So maybe a o-5V Hall would just create dead spota on both ends of the twist. Any throttle experts out there?

Edited by - SiriusFun on 07/22/2010 20:09:22
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Uncle D
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Posted - 07/23/2010 :  02:04:37  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
I think 0-5V Hall that seller labeled it wrong, unless you found that 0-5V hall exists. And after I replied I did check into it and the Magura is basically a potentiometer.

As for the other stuff, I'll shoot you an email so not to clutter Modd's thread.

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minimodder
Starting Member


NY
USA

10 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2010 :  21:17:00  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok me and my unc were working today are we pluugged the brake connector in and they wires are black ot red red to black is this how it should be is this what shorts out the motor because our motor break on the scooter dont work well mine at least his throttle fired haha!!!! is this how to wires go here is a diagram i drew up i dont think its good its my first but it gets the point across


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Uncle D
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Posted - 07/24/2010 :  22:47:01  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
For the brakes it doesn't matter as it just open or closes the circuitry so there isn't a concern about polarity. If you are talking about the two pin plug coming off lots of controllers labeled for "Brakes", then that simply tells the controller that brakes are applied so and so the controller only cuts power to the motor while brakes are applied. It doesn't actually apply the motor braking function.

But I may just be misunderstanding your diagram. When are the wires going to and from?

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minimodder
Starting Member


NY
USA

10 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2010 :  23:55:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
the top part are the wires coming from the controller the bottom part is the connector from the brakes
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Uncle D
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Posted - 07/25/2010 :  00:12:07  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Then I think what I stated is correct. It just signals the controller that brakes are applied and it just cuts power to motor. I don't think it actually causes the motor to "drag". i could be wrong though.

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minimodder
Starting Member


NY
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10 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2010 :  00:14:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok thanks for the help we didnt want to try it with out being sure thanks
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JoeStud
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rochester
ny
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176 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2010 :  15:46:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
right. similar (somewhat) to turning the key off in a car. kills power drive system. you got it right

***The Main Difference Between Men & Boys, Is Their Toys (Scooters)***
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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/26/2010 :  11:17:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
hi guys i was thinking about adding an old cpu fan to my motor to keep it cool so these are my questions
1: How much juice would it draw if i just hook it up to one of my 12v batts
2: how can i tell what the fan is rated for i saw i think Timmy2time wired his into his motor wires and the more throttle the faster the fan spun how can i tell if my fan can handle the 36v my scooter puts out to the motor?
3: would it be safe to mount it directly to the rear end of the motor?
4: if i attach just the fan blades to the front sprocket of my motor using some kind of a 2 part epoxy would it still pull the heat from my motor the same way a motorized fan would?



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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/26/2010 :  22:34:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG I really need help now i just tried to test my charger and it wont work i put my voltage meter to the 1 and 3 ports on my charger and it read 41.3V ?? then i tried to test the voltage coming from the charger port and holy S$%# i tried to test it while it was on and POW a huge spark came out am f-kn burn my whole fricken finger tip! HOW THE HECK DO I TEST MY CHARGER! SAFELY TEST MY CHARGER when i hook it up to my scooter the light is green and my batteries are reading 12.04v are they not discharged enough to charge ?
BTW my controller is OK amazingly after that huge spark it also cinged my eyebrow and it smelled kinda funky from the charging port i think it was just my melted skin! but everthing is still fully functional i checked my connections before trying and redid them all with crimps i dont get it can any one give me a suggestion on how to test this darned thing!
Any help will greatly be appreciated



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Uncle D
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Posted - 07/26/2010 :  23:02:03  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
I tried to test mine as well, but you really can't. I mean you can, because I think the charger detects the multimeter and thinks the batteries are charged. I know I just tried it the other day to check polarities. However, the first time I tested it, it seemed to go into its trickle charge mode--where I got a pulsed signal. IDK, maybe there's another way.

Man, you seem to experience these kinda component failure quite often.

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moddinmanic97
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Posted - 07/27/2010 :  09:17:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
EXACTLY uncle D how come this crap doesnt happen to everyone else ok thanks for the help i think today imm going to charge it while closely monitoring the batteries heat



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gameboy
Administrator

just north of austin
tx
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Posted - 07/27/2010 :  09:23:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
modd, while it is not charging, check your BATTERIES for the voltage they have. then plug the charger in and see if the light changes to "charge" (with all the different color combo's out there yours could be red, yellow, orange, blinky red, solid red, or something else i havent thought of), while it is charging keep your meter on the BATTERY leads, where you had them before, and see if the voltage starts to rise. you may have to leave it there and watch it, but you wont get a spark this way and your charger does not detect your meter and you can see if your charger is still working.
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moddinmanic97
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Posted - 07/27/2010 :  09:40:35  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
yea i actually have been doing that for the past 15 mins and nothing i know that on my 9v battery that died on me it wouldn't charge because i had leads coming from the leads on the battery to charge on my scooter i have leads on the middle battery going to my lights should i remove these and try to charge it then?



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moddinmanic97
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Posted - 07/27/2010 :  10:15:31  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
WHAT THE HECK i just tried to charge it while it was and and WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO it charges it spiked right up to 12.41 12.42 12.43 12.44!! thanks for your help but why does it only charge wen on?



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Uncle D
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Posted - 07/27/2010 :  14:11:58  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Charges while on? Perhaps something buggered with the wiring as I dont think you want your scooter charging while "ON" as there is a standby usage of power(minimal), but that in/out of power may not be the best thing for your batteries. I'm just speculating, based off my experience with other manufacturers scooters that I've had. Charging while scooter was "ON" was impossible the way the wiring/controller was setup or on the earlier Go Motorboard it would trash the batteries charging while scooter was on.

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moddinmanic97
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Posted - 07/27/2010 :  14:13:54  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
thats what i thought i just moved my power switch to my handle bars and coming from the charger port was a wire to the 3 connector from the switch should i try to charge with out that 3 hooked up?



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Uncle D
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Posted - 07/27/2010 :  14:19:47  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
I think that wire is orginally supposed to work the charging the opposite--not charge when its switched on. I think! I notieced that wire from both my razors. If in doubt just wire in your own new wires directly to the XLR port, but you'll have to be sure you power "OFF" the scooter before charging, again, in the case it may damage the batteries.

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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2010 :  15:43:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
holy cow uncle D i am totally confused now what do you mean directly into my new wires? sorry to be a total noob haha but icant wrap my mind around it now



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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2010 :  17:13:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK im kinda confused here ive been putting on the chains on our scooters and on both scooters the adjacent links are WAYYY to tight i can just barely move them what did i do wrong i used this link it was a double thing i thought it was perfect and now i guess it wasnt
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180532905161&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_928



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SiriusFun
Journeyman Modder

Lakewood
Colorado

203 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2010 :  18:11:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The master link will not change the length of your chain. You may need to move the motor a little closer to the wheel. Do you have any adjustment for that?
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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2010 :  18:22:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
yea ik that i shortend my chain up with my dremel and tried the ink and thearea around the link will not BEND!



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Uncle D
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Kailua Kona
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477 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2010 :  18:33:38  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
I'm thinking you are having a problem with the masterlink as it links up with the other open end of the chain--to close it. If so, I've had that happen before. Perhaps it'll just "break-in" over time. IDK.

If its adjustment, then yeah the E300 wheel can be back or pushed forward to adjust tension. to have used that link you had to have added and "off-set" link or removed one of the wider links and replaced it with this master link. If the latter is what you did then the chain length is, in deed, the same length. The former method would yield half a chain link more overall length to the chain.

As for wiring in the charger you'd simply take a positive at your positive from the battery to thcircuit breaker and tie in the negative to the negative to the controller. That's one way.

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Edited by - Uncle D on 07/27/2010 22:06:08
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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2010 :  18:43:21  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
yup i got a half link cut the wide one with my demel i tried loosening it by running it over my sprocket and nothing



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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2010 :  19:32:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I AM GOING CRAZY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I JUST GOT MY REPLEACEMENT THROTTLE AND WHEN I PLUG IN THE + AND SIGANL WIRES THE F@$%N THING RUUNS AT HALF THROTTLE THEN WHEN I TOUCH THE - TO TEH SIGNAL THE DARNED THING RUNS AT FULL THROTTLE WHEN I PLUG - INTO THE - PORT THE MOTOR FKN STOPS DEAD PLEASE HELP I AM GOING CRAZY IM NEVER TOUCHING THIS CRAP AGAIN !!!!!! PLEASE ELP AND I KNOW IM WRITING IN CAPS CUZ IM GOING CRAZY!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2010 :  21:27:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok i started to work on it again and now when i turn on the scooter with the throttle plugged in it runs full throttle and when i touch teh black wire to the blue nothing happens(duh) then while it's running if i plug the negative wire in it still kills the motor is there a way to get my 4 wire throttle to work in my 3 wire controller? i really dont wanna spend the money to buy another throttle i was also wondering would one of those light switches that dim and stuff work as a throttle just hook up the positive to it and the signal to the output connections to make it work?



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Uncle D
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Kailua Kona
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477 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2010 :  22:12:38  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
A potentiometer might work. You can get one of those from radioshack. Might not be the best throttle engagement but it should work. I know Sirius used a 5k ohm throttle(basically a potentiometer suffed into a twist throttle) on a controller that uses orginally was intended for a Hall throttle. He said it just took a little of turning before the scooter moved because the Hall throttle delivers a 1-4V while the 5k ohm pot. ype throttle he was testing delivers a 0-5V range of voltage.



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moddinmanic97
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Posted - 07/27/2010 :  22:17:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok i have no idea what you said could you kinda dumb that down for me? i have no idea what a potentiometer is so i looked it up is that a variable light switch? here is the definition im guessing its the second one
po·ten·ti·om·e·ter (p-tnsh-m-tr)
n.
1. An instrument for measuring an unknown voltage by comparison to a standard voltage.
2. A three-terminal resistor with an adjustable center connection, widely used for volume control in radio and television receivers. Also called pot1.




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Uncle D
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Posted - 07/28/2010 :  00:15:22  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
It's #2. A 0-5v, known as 5k ohm potentiometer couldget you running, and operatesjust like a dimmer. It basically is a dimmer, but a more appropriate type of device to mimick your throttle voltage. It's made to put out 0 volts and maxes out at 5vand has varying voltage all in between based on how much turning you do.

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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2010 :  00:27:44  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ok so if i go to radio shack what should i ask for? i really fel like a "noob" also do you think that my controller is the culprit for blowing all of these darned throttles?



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Uncle D
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Posted - 07/28/2010 :  01:55:48  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
You sure you got the wire colors/identities right?


Here is what you'd want from RadioShack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102789

Gotta remember though, its not gonn start moving until you've turned it to where the controller sees 1V--as that's what its looking for from teh Hall throttle. That's nearly a quarter turn which will seem like quite a bit.


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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2010 :  08:36:20  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ill probably get another throttle eventuallly vut im going on vacation with my nephew and everyone else and we both wanted to have our scooters working ill go to radioshack l8r and pick that up hwat do you mean with the wireing? i was planning on just taking the positve lead from my controller and hooking it up to the switch then ill hook the other part of the switch to the signal lead would this work?



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gameboy
Administrator

just north of austin
tx
USA

1460 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2010 :  09:45:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by moddinmanic97

...im going on vacation with my nephew and everyone else and we both wanted to have our scooters working...



dont forget to check garage sales, craigslist and so on for "donor" scooters too. they can be a great sorce for parts, most are real cheap and you get the right parts too.
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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2010 :  10:24:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Gameboy i totally frgot about that i dont know if your guys know about this website its called searchtempest.com you enter the information and it searches all of the surrounding craigslist's near you its really handy. ill look on there later



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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2010 :  16:47:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK you guys i was about to go to radio shack to pick the "throttle up and i was wondering does anyone know of a spring loaded potentiometer so when i stop twisting it'll go back yea i know that if it snit spring loaded it wont have the cruise control effect but do you think that there is a way to get one that is sprint loaded already?



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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/28/2010 :  17:30:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
ugh i have wayyyy to many questions now that i have 2 broken throttle is there a way to fix one of them? the new one they sent me when i plug all three of the wires in nothing happens when i plug just the - and signal in nothing when i plug oin the signal and the positive in it runs full throttle on the first one when i plug the wires in any combo nothing happens twisting or not twisting on both throttle nothing happens when i twist with any combo



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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/29/2010 :  13:02:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
aight you guys i was about to send of my broken replacement throttle to monster scooter parts tehy said that wanted it back but i was wondering could the ground wire that goes to the throttle be bad because the scooter runs full throttle when just the + and siganl aree plugged in and on the first throttle when all threee wires are plugged in nothing happens would there be a test to see if that wire is bad?



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Uncle D
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Posted - 07/29/2010 :  13:18:44  Show Profile  Send Uncle D a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
What if you put a digital multimeter testing the leads of the throttle wires output from the controller. I believe if you hook up a Hall throttle wrong the hall sensor can easily be damaged. So from what it sounds like you've been kinda trying all kinds of combinations and that surely a one or two of those combinations could be enough to "toast" the Hall sensor.

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moddinmanic97
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221 Posts

Posted - 07/29/2010 :  13:54:53  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
well the first time i ever tried to use it the motor ran at full throttle becuz i hooked the wires up in this order signal + and then negative when i plugged the + in the motor started spinning at full speed and then when the - was plugged in the motor stoped dead? on the other throttle nothing happened now matter what combo i only started trying different combos with that one becuz i knew it wasnt working



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moddinmanic97
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Posted - 07/29/2010 :  19:24:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK you guys i just got my potentiometer and it has 3 prongs one of them i know is the + lead one of the is the - lead and one of the is the signal lead how do i know which one of the is the negative and positive I DONT WANT ANOTHER BROKEN POTENTIOMETER attached is the diagram that came on the box i think that it is the middle one that is connected to the squiggly lines but im not positive


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